Comparison of Macerating Toilets vs. Vacuum Marine Toilets

Macerating Toilets vs. Vacuum Marine Toiltes

There are several beliefs in marine products market about vacuum and Macerating Toilets. Some of these beliefs are true and some are myth.

Let us look at the how both technique satisfy basic toilet engineering functions:

Evacuation of all solids and liquid in one flush:

Vacuum toilet: Stored vacuum is applied to the bowl by opening a valve by paddle or electric. Pressure differential between atmosphere and vacuum pushes water and solids towards the cavity behind the valve. Bowl evacuates quickly in 2 to 3 seconds. As soon as air enters the bowl throat, vacuum drops rapidly. This evacuation technique make a loud noise associated with sudden pressure changes and reduced pipe sizes.

When user closes the valve, suction of the diaphragm vacuum pump is applied to the content of the cavity below valve. Solids and water and air start to move towards pump thru long hose between bowl and pump.

Pressure differential between atmosphere and vacuum accelerate water and solids during initial application of vacuum. Water and air move more rapidly than solids. In order to further accelerate water and solids pipe size is reduced after valve cavity. This sudden change in volume causes more velocity for water and solids and some breakdown of solid from bigger chunk to smaller chunk. After the valve is closed, suction of the vacuum pump moves air and water towards the pump faster than solids. Hence due to lack of positive pressure and water, there is a tendency for solids to splatter on the walls of hose and stay there till next flush.

Once suction of the pump had displaced all the air from hose and valve cavity to builds a preset vacuum level, pumps shuts off. This means pumps continue to run for 45 to 60 seconds after toilet use with typical diaphragm noise. If there is any slight leak in the hose connection or debris caught between valve seat and bowl throat, pump will turn on itself as vacuum drops. This may be an annoying if it happens in the night time.

Due to vacuum, spattered sewage on the hose wall is decomposing under anaerobic environment. Anaerobic odors include a wide range of compounds, most notoriously the reduced sulfur compounds (e.g. hydrogen sulfide, dimethyl sulfide, dimethyl disulfide, and methanethiol), volatile fatty acids, aromatic compounds and amines. Since system is under vacuum, it is unlikely that these odor producing gases escape thru hose. However these odors may be a problem at discharge side of the vacuum pump or during the flush cycle when vacuum level drops to almost zero. Due to notorious sulfur odors, some manufacturers only recommend special odor resistance hose for their vacuum system, increasing cost.

Macerating Toilet: Suction of the pump begins evacuation of bowl. Since pump is normally flooded with water at the beginning of the cycle, suction is powerful and draws solids and water from bowl cavity similar to vacuum toilet without loud popping noise. Most of the Macerating Toilets on the market are centrifugal pumps hence runs much quite than rubber impeller type. There is some gurgling noise similar to house toilets at the end of evacuation.

Suction of the pump is continuous and does not drops as stored vacuum does. Solids are macerated into very fine particles and send thru discharge at much higher velocity than vacuum toilet. Also since particles are smaller and have water as carrier, sewage move further into hose as compared to vacuum

End of the cycle pump stops, noise stops. There is no mysterious running of pump due to leaks or lake of vacuum. Power draw is measure by amps multiply by time. The macerator pump may draw more amps but draws less power compared to vacuum pumps.

Small macerated waste in the hose decomposes in aerobic environment. Aerobic byproducts of gases are odorless co2 and water. This means that a good quality rubber hose is all needed for system, no special odor resistance expensive hose is required.

The macerator pump eliminates waste clog in the hose or holding tank system as well as rinsing of bowl surfaces to remove all stains.

Part 2 of “Comparison of Macerating Toilets vs. Vacuum Marine Toilets” will be coming up soon!

Visit us at: http://raritaneng.com/catagory-pages/choosing-your-marine-toilet/ for more details on marine products.


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Boat Cleaning Products Professional Suggests The Best Way to Learn How to Read Nautical Charts

Raritan Engineering Company your boat cleaning products specialists would like to share with you these topics we thought would be of interest to you this month regarding learning how to read nautical charts.

Your boat cleaning products experts as well as many recreational boaters in small boats don’t consider it important to have charts onboard. Bad idea, even if you are just operating on your local lake. Perhaps you are not yet a boat navigator, but a chart onboard allows you to compare what you are seeing with what you should be seeing and can help you keep your bearings.

I did an instructor’s clinic a year or so ago on Lake Lanier in Georgia. This is a huge lake north of Atlanta. The school that hosted the clinic had to borrow a few boats and products from another location on the lake and several of the instructor candidates volunteered to move the boats.

Nautical charts are different from maps in that they specifically depict water areas, while maps concentrate on land area, roads, landmarks, etc. Land areas and features on boat charts are sketchy and are noted only for their interest to the boater.

Several of our visitors (that includes you Judy, in your brand new spiffy boat) have asked for a tip on reading nautical charts so we thought we would take a “non-navigators” trip from the Shark River out to the Atlantic, down the Jersey Shore, in the Manasquan Inlet and down the Intracoastal to Ortley Beach.

Important tips:

  • Study your chart thoroughly.
  • Look at the position from which you will start and visually follow along the course you wish to take.
  • Look for “notes” – water depths, obstructions (especially under water), bridges, power lines or any other unusual items that may be a hazard to your progress.
  • Make a note of each of these on a separate piece of paper.

Boat Cleaning Products Analyst Continues Discussion on Learning How to Read Nautical Charts

Your marine holding tanks experts using the Shark River detailed inset, let’s assume that we are departing the Municipal Boat Basin on the south side of Shark River Island. We can see from the chart note that we have a controlling width of 50 feet and 7.5′ depth from the Boat Basin to the jetty channel. The channel then widens to 100 feet with a depth of 18 feet.

You can find more information as well as get assistance on marine holding tanks and how learning how to read nautical charts at Raritan Engineering Company.

As we proceed toward the Atlantic, our first concern will be the boat power lines and two bridges that we will encounter.

The power lines have a clearance of 31 feet so we are okay in our small cuddy cabin cruiser. The first bridge has a horizontal clearance of 50 feet and a vertical clearance of 8 feet. The second bridge has a horizontal clearance of 50 feet and a vertical clearance of 13 feet.

Once we have cleared these first two bridges we will be passing the Belmar Basin on the right and the Shark River CG on the left. We then will traverse another bridge with a horizontal clearance of 90 feet and a vertical clearance of 15 feet. Once again, we are okay as we finish cleaning, and as we pass under the bridge.

We are now approaching a FL R 4sec 33ft 4M “2” HORN marker and a FL G 4sec 10ft 4M “1”. What do these series of letters and numbers mean? Simply put, we will be passing, on our port side, a flashing (FL) red (R) lighted buoy that flashes (at night) every four seconds (4sec), which is 33 feet tall (33ft), can be seen for 4 miles (4M), is marked with the number 2 (“2”), and is equipped with a horn.

As we proceed south following the 30 foot contour line and watching our depth finder can enjoy the view of the beach. From this point, you now have the Manasquan Inlet entrance markers in site, especially after finishing cleaning. (Click to see enlarged chart) You will turn west to enter the Inlet between the FL R 4sec 30ft 5M “4” and the FL 6sec 35ft 15M HORN.

Once inside the inlet we will just follow the channel with a depth of 8.5 feet until we reach R”2″ Fl R 4sec marker. This is where the channel begins to narrow until we are filtered into the very narrow channel at marker C”3″ just before the first bridge we see returning from sea.

Even though the channel now starts to enter a physically wider area of the Manasquan River, and after you finish cleaning, you note that the channel is marked more frequently. This is because the water is very shallow (1- 1.5 feet in some areas) outside the channel.

Just after we have passed R N”6A” and C “7A” we turn south into the Point Pleasant Canal, which begins the ICW, keeping FL R”8″ to starboard. This products marker should have a yellow triangle indicating that it is also a marker in the ICW.

From here we are cautious and continually check our chart for markers and objects from which we can visually note our position – keeping red markers to starboard and green to port.

Although this was a boater-friendly trip covering only about 20 miles, hopefully you get the idea how important your nautical chart products can be in making your trips safer.

So don’t forget these helpful tips when learning how to read nautical charts. 1) Study your chart thoroughly;  2) Look at the position from which you will start and visually follow along the course you wish to take; and 3) Make a note of each of these on a separate piece of paper.

Raritan Engineering has more information on boat cleaning products, marine holding tanks, marine sanitation device, and on how to learn to read nautical charts.

via Chart Reading 101

Marine Hardware Analyst Agrees With This Being the Best Way to Install Seacocks 

Raritan Engineering Company your marine hardware specialists would like to share with you these topics we thought would be of interest to you this month regarding the best way to install seacocks.

Marine Hardware Experts Have Best Way to Install Seacocks shK1zt

Your marine hardware expert’s best advice for anyone contemplating adding a through-hull fitting is don’t. Through-hulls sink boats. If you can accomplish the same thing by installing a tee-connector in an existing inlet or discharge line, you avoid boring another hole in the bottom of your boat.

New Through-Hull

As your boat hardware and accessories outlet we know that installing a new through-hull fitting necessitates a new hole in the hull. Always locate seacocks where they are readily accessible or you defeat the purpose of having a valve in the line. Before you drill the hole, double-check the location carefully both inside and outside the hull to make sure, for example, that inside there will be ample room to throw the handle, and outside the new fitting is not going to set up turbulence in front of your depth sounder or speed log impeller.

Select a hole saw the size of the fitting you are installing and cut the required hole by first drilling from the outside of the marine hull until the pilot drill in the hole saw penetrates the hull, then finish the hole by drilling from the inside.

Through-Hull Replacement

To replace a through-hull fitting, remove the nuts from the bolts through the seacock’s mounting flange and unscrew the bolts or drive them out with a hammer and a punch. Unscrew the seacock from the through-hull-with the help of a marine pipe wrench, if necessary.

You can find more information as well as get assistance on marine hardware supplies and a marine water heater and on how to find the best way to install a seacock at Raritan Engineering.

Marine Hardware Adviser Gives Thumbs Up on These Suggestions

Through-hull fittings installed with polyurethane sealant can be very difficult to remove. A length of 3/8-inch threaded rod (or a long bolt) which is a nice piece of hardware, will make the job easier. Slide a washer or a metal plate too big to pass through the fitting onto the rod and capture it with a nut. Pass the rod through the fitting from inside the boat, seating the washer flat on the fitting. 

Dry-Fit

Once the hole is prepared, the remaining steps are identical for a new seacock or a replacement. Cut a circle of 3/4-inch plywood 2 or 3 inches larger than the flange of the seacock, and bore out the center with your hole saw to form a ring.

Because you are going to thread the through-hull into the seacock, you can discard the lock nut. Insert the new through-hull fitting from outside the marine hull, then inside slip the wooden ring in place and thread the seacock onto the through-hull.

Tighten the two parts together. Most boatyards have a special step-wrench that grips the ears inside bronze through-hulls. A wedge of scrap hardwood will do the same job.

With the seacock tightened snugly–not too tight–you should have plenty of threads inside the seacock, but the length of the through-hull should not prevent the base of the seacock from tightening against the plywood ring hardware. If the through-hull is too short, replace the 3/4-inch thick ring with a new one cut and shaped from 1/2-inch plywood.

Installation

Insert the through-hull, put the hardware plywood ring(s) in position, and insert the mounting bolts through the hull and far enough into the plywood to prevent it from turning. If the seacock is bronze, the mounting bolts must also be bronze.

Tighten the seacock until it seats snugly on the ring and the mounting holes are in alignment. Remove the mounting bolts and heavily coat them for an inch or so below the heads with polyurethane sealant. Reinsert them through hull, ring, and flange, and install a washer and a nut on each.

So don’t forget these steps needed in installing a seacock. 1) New through-hull;  2) through-hull replacement;  3) dry fit;  and then 4) installation.

Raritan Engineering your marine parts depot has more information on marine hardware such as a boat water heater and the best way to install seacocks. See our extensive line of marine products on our website.

via Installing a Seacock

Boat Water Heater Supplier Advice on Emergency Response Continues Below

The Rescue Sychronisation Center or neighborhood Shore Guard terminal may release a helicopter, rescue vessel or boat or close-by office ship, depending upon your area in the water, local climate, availability of team and also equipment and also nature of the unexpected emergency.

You should discover even more info along with obtain support on a Boat Water Heater and on how you can call for help throughout a boating emergency at Raritan Engineering.

When the Coastline Guard gets your Mayday, the Objective Coordinator will certainly determine your level of danger by taking into consideration several factors: the nature of your scenario and also the gear aboard your boat, the reliability of your placement, the tide, exposure, existing and also sea conditions,present and forecasted climate, unique considerations (age/health of those aboard, for example), whether you have dependable interactions, the level of concern in those aboard, as well as the possibility for the scenario to wear away even more.

If a helicopter is sent off, be sure to safeguard all loose things on deck (chopper blades wash is really effective and also unsecured items could turn right into flying projectiles.)

Lower and also protect any kind of sails, get rid of any devices that might impediment the line connected to the rescue basket, unplug any kind of heating unit that may be turned on, as well as ensure everyone is wearing a life vest in instance somebody comes under the water.

The helicopter is most likely to approach your boat on the port stern quarter, since it provides the aviator optimal exposure from the cockpit.

Just recently the Coastline Guard began carrying out a new command, control and also communications system– Rescue 21– which is currently being installed in phases across the Usa.

It will vastly enhance the Shore Guard’s capability to save lives as well as home. (To learn more visit www.uscg.mil/Acquisition/rescue21/strategy.asp.)

No brand-new equipment is required for you to gain from Rescue 21, however you can help improve feedback time using the heating system at your disposal and by upgrading to a Marine-Band VHF-FM radio equipped with electronic careful calls (DSC)

The United States Coast Guard is always ready to make aid to sailors encountering extreme and imminent risk. Maintain your vessel’s hull, motor as well as on-board tools in leading problem, and also have a good working heating unit.

Do not neglect these practical ideas on how to call for help throughout a boating emergency situation at http://raritaneng.com/raritan-product-line/water-heaters/1700-series-water-heater/

1) Keep in mind that a mayday must be transmitted preferably using marine-band VHF-FM radio Stations 16 or 2182 kHz MF/SSB;

2) be prepared with the right gear before going out on your travel; and

3) make certain to protect all loose products on deck after making mayday call to the Coast Guard.

To see more info on Boat Water Heaters and marine hardware from Raritan Engineering  click here or visit our channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1GNq8Kav0gnLSuQzj1zgUw

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Marine Toilet YPAt9p

Maintenance Tips for MarineToilets

Raritan Engineering Company your Marine Toilet supplier would like to share with you these topics we thought would be of interest to you this month regarding Raritan marine toilet maintenance.

Cleaning the Lines

Your macerator pump experts know that heads flushed with salt water accumulate scale deposits in the discharge channels and hoses. Scale deposits cause a head to get progressively harder to flush, and it is scale on the valves that allows water in the discharge line to leak back into the bowl.

Avoiding this problem is as easy as running a pint of white vinegar through the head once a month, without using a macerator. Move the vinegar through the head slowly, giving the head a single pump every 4 or 5 minutes.

Marine Toilet Specialist Summarizes Key Points

If you suspect you already have a scale build-up, dissolve it with a 10% solution of muriatic acid, not using a pump, available from most hardware stores. The acid won’t harm porcelain, plastic, or rubber parts.

Your electric toilets experts suggest that you pour two cups of acid into the bowl. It will fizz as it reacts with the calcium deposits on the bowl valve. When the fizzing stops, pump the head–intake closed–just enough to empty the bowl without using a macerator. This moves the acid into the pump. After a few minutes pump again to move the acid into the discharge hose. Let it sit a few more minutes before opening the intake and thoroughly flushing the toilet and lines. The acid is “used up” as it reacts with the calcium, so heavy scaling may call for more than one treatment.

You can find more information as well as get assistance on electric toilets and on marine toilet maintenance tips at Raritan Engineering.

Lubricating

To keep the pump operating smoothly, follow your monthly vinegar flush with a dose of oil. The best choice is a lubricant intended for marine toilets, but you can also use mineral oil.

The usual treatment is to let a little water into the bowl, pour in a couple of ounces of lube, and pump this through the toilet. This method is adequate, but less than ideal because it lubricates only the discharge side of the pump.

While you are servicing the head, lightly coat the piston rod with Teflon grease. This will prolong the life of the piston-rod seal. 

Odor

Electric marine toilets need not stink, but they often do. The discharge hose is, by far, the most common culprit. To check yours, rub the hose with a damp, clean cloth, then sniff the cloth, without using a macerator. 

Leaking connections are another source of odor, and you can use your cloth the same way to locate a leak. Also check the seal around the piston rod, perhaps near the pump.

Another common source of head odor is grass and other marine life trapped inside the flush-water passage under the rim of the bowl. Prevent this by installing a strainer in the intake line. 

An anti-siphon valve in the discharge line can also release odors into the boat. A properly installed valve vents outside the cabin area. 

Overhaul

If the toilet gives off a foul odor but it isn’t leaking, if it is difficult to pump but the discharge hose isn’t clogged, or if it just isn’t working right, it is time for an overhaul.

So don’t forget these helpful points on how to maintain your marine toilets. 1) Cleaning the lines;  2) Lubricating and pump maintenance;  3) Odor maintenance;  and 4) the need to overhaul.

Raritan Engineering has more information on macerator pumps, electric toilets, marine toilet, and how boat toilets work.

via Marine Toilet Maintenance