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Begin by removing any cosmetic hardware unmount the pump from the base by removing the four, 1226B nuts. Remove the CH43P, clamp and hose by gently twisting while removing the pump assembly and flapper valve note the orientation of the flapper valve hinges edge in some earlier base assemblies, the housing spacers part 1226C are separate place the handle into the socket and raise the piston to its highest position. Using the one eighth inch allen wrench loosen the 1211PL piston yoke set screw also remove the 1210A Cotter pin and pull out the 1216 clevis pin using a three eight inch wrench on the flat of the 1212 piston rod unthread, the 1211PL piston yoke, press the piston towards the bottom of the housing using a pair of pliers or equivalent. Remove the piston from the pump assembly.
Remove the 1214 cartridge by using us deep well seven, eight-inch socket. Next remove the seal and O ring from the cartridge and discard using a flat blade screwdriver, remove the 1232MS O ring from the piston before installing the new piston O ring. Make certain the channel is clear of debris. Add a small amount of the supplied Superlube from the repair kit package, using a small amount of PTFE or electrical tape. Wrap the threads of the piston rod to protect the seal upon reinstalling examine the inner walls of the housing for signs of scoring. Use light sandpaper to smooth if necessary.
Re-install the piston install, the new 1214, eight shaft seal, large side down over the piston rod. Next re-install the 1214B O ring and 1214 cartridge into the housing. Remove the tape and tighten the 1214 cartridge to 30 inch pounds. Next install the 1211PL using care to line the flat on the shaft with the Allen screw key way, using a pair of channel type pliers loosen the 1217 discharge cap remove the spring and ball note. The large end of the spring is facing downward on this side of the pump, inspect the ball seat area and clean if necessary, replace the 1201 ball and 1202 gasket use care not to overtighten when reassembling reinstall the 1210 handle socket with the clevis pin and Cotter key using the channel pliers loosen the 1204, be approximately four revolutions using the valve handle, lift the valve assembly from the body note, the orientation of the inlet LWS spring small in down clean the inlet valve area of old grease or debris installed the nude 1201 check ball and spring.
Remove the gasket and disassemble the inlet valve body with a flat blade screwdriver remove and replace the set of inlet valve O rings. Add a small amount of super lube to the O ring surfaces reassemble the inlet valve body replace the 1202 gasket and reinstall. The inlet valve assembly gently tighten the 1204B valve cap using two nine 16 wrenches loosen the discharge flange assembly. Remove the C253 joker valve and clean the ceiling surfaces of both housing and discharged fitting when installing the new joker valve note that the slit stands vertical on edge, irrelevant to the position of the discharge fitting angle. Re-install the discharge fitting and tighten bolts to where the outer edges of the flange touch use the two seven 16 wrenches to loosen the 1226. Be nuts to allow for bowl removal, remove the RNI shoulder washers, and the bowl will lift off, remove the old 1234 gasket and clean both surfaces of the base as well as the bowl reassemble in the reverse order using care, not to overtighten re-install the flapper valve hindering edge closest to the bowl. As previously mentioned, if your base incorporates the 1226C washers, you don't need to add these. Remount and install a PHII pump assembly to the base.
Direct YouTube Link: https://youtu.be/kpIAGbRHCOQ
Using the channel pliers remove the 1203W from the housing. When the inlet valve is in the dry position, the 1203W helps defeat the negative pressure Build up in the housing by allowing air to enter. Using the recommended drill bit extract the seal cartridge from the 1203W housing by gently pressing from the outside inward remove any debris that may have accumulated inside the valve body. Visually inspect the valve cartridge and clean as necessary in the event that check valve cartridge becomes dismantled reassemble. In this order, gently press the cartridge into the valve body evenly. Using the recommended socket continue to press the seal cartridge until fully seated. Re-install the 1203W and gently tighten.
Direct YouTube Link: https://youtu.be/O7rIDaI8RSw
If a span or wrench isn't available, two, three quarter inch nuts can be used to fabricate a tool to aid in the 1249 base plugs removal using the two, three quarter inch wrenches. Tighten the nuts in opposite directions. This causes the nuts to lock into position, fully insert the tool and remove the base plug. Add a small amount of PTFE thread sealant to the new plug and re-install in the reverse order.
Direct YouTube Link: https://youtu.be/j8joeh25bks
Begin by removing the CH43P snap clamp. Remove the hose and unthread the 1236E bowl elbow using the channel pliers loosen and remove the bowl. Spud nut remove the flat and rubber washer from the bowl carefully. Remove the spud by gently pressing downward when installing the new spud assembly note, the notched edges. These are used to aid an installation, install the new rubber and flat washer while holding the threads of the bell portion. While installing the nut portion, it may be helpful to use a flat blade screwdriver or equivalent to hold the inner wall of the fitting. Use the channel pliers to complete the process. Re-install the 1236E inlet elbow and connect the hose, reattach the snap clamp and secure with the channel pliers.