The first step to survival is preparation, and we hope sharing the Neal’s insights and firsthand experience will help others cruising tsunami-prone waters to be better prepared in the event of an earthquake.
From Mahina Expeditions:
As sailors, we need to be aware of the ever present threat of a tsunami. By establishing emergency procedures for your crew and vessel along with knowing what to expect and what to do in the event of a tsunami, it will be far less likely that you or your crew will become casualties or that your vessel will sustain damage.
The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) Pacific Tsunami Warning Center is located at Ewa Beach, Hawaii. They have seafloor and coastal sensors located around the Pacific, but after an earthquake, it takes them at least 12-15 minutes to analyze data to determine whether there is the potential for a tsunami.
When Ashore in a Coastal Location
In any coastal location, always note the tidal range and times. If you ever see the sea level receding lower than normal, realize that this is the natural warning sign of an approaching tsunami.
A tsunami can strike anywhere along most of the U.S. coastline. The most destructive tsunamis have occurred along the coasts of California, Oregon, Washington, Alaska and Hawaii.
Earthquake-induced movement of the ocean floor most often generates tsunamis. If a major earthquake or landslide occurs close to shore, the first wave in a series could reach the beach in a few minutes, even before a warning is issued.
Your Boat Cleaning Products Specialists Know That Having an Emergency Kit For Your Family s Crucial
Tsunami Preparedness Checklist
- Your boat cleaning products analysts suggest that you make a disaster supply kit and have a family emergency plan.
- Talk to everyone in your household about what to do if a tsunami occurs. Create and practice an evacuation plan for your family.
- If the school evacuation plan requires you to pick your children up from school or from another location. Be aware telephone lines during a tsunami watch or warning may be overloaded and routes to and from schools may be jammed.
- Knowing your community’s warning systems and disaster plans, including evacuation routes.
- Know the height of your street above sea level and the distance of your street from the coast or other high-risk waters.
During a Tsunami
- Follow the evacuation order issued by authorities and evacuate immediately. Take your animals with you.
- Move inland to higher ground immediately. Pick areas 100 feet (30 meters) above sea level or go as far as 2 miles (3 kilometers) inland, away from the coastline. If you cannot get this high or far, go as high or far as you can. Every foot inland or upward may make a difference.
- Stay away from the beach. Never go down to the beach to watch a tsunami come in. If you can see the wave you are too close to escape it.
If you are docked and experience an earthquake or rapidly receding water, immediately start your engine, cut your docklines and motor at full speed to water deeper than 150 feet.
If you are at anchor and experience an earthquake or rapidly receding water, immediately start your engine, raise your anchor and get to deeper water. In the 2009 tsunami that hit Niuatoputapu, friends aboard a 39-foot sloop tried to raise anchor immediately after the earthquake but found their chain wrapped around a coral head, so they let out all of their chain.
When leaving the boat
Here are some priorities to quickly grab:
1. Passports, cash and credit cards
2. Iridium satellite phone
3. Cell phone
4. VHF hand held radio (this proved very helpful in Samoa)
7. Water bottle
8. Granola bars or similar foods
9. Necessary prescription medicines
10. Running shoes
Visit us here http://www.raritaneng.com/category-pages/cleaners/ at Raritan Engineering and see how we always have everything to take care of your marine supply needs.
Your Seacock Specialists Caution That Boats Can Sink Even If Something Bad Doesn’t Happen
Raritan Engineering your seacocks professionals would like to share with you these topics we thought would be of interest to you this month regarding how to keep your boat from sinking while its docked.
A boat shouldn’t sink unless something really bad happens, right? Your seacock analysts know that a high-speed collision, a fiery fuel explosion, a direct strike by lightning — these events certainly can sink a boat.
Studies of insurance claims by BoatU.S. back this up, showing that more than two-thirds of recreational-boat sinkings happen at the dock or on a mooring. BoatU.S. further estimates that only 35 percent of such sinkings are out of an owner’s hands.
The (Not Always) Mighty Bilge Pump
A bilge pump can really save the day in the event of an unexpected gusher, and it’s great for cleaning up the condensation and other unavoidable drips and drops that collect in the bilge.
Do Winter Right
When it comes to winterizing, an ounce of prevention can be worth gallons and gallons of cure. Ice can damage hoses below the waterline, strainer baskets and through-hull valves. Water can contaminate the gear lube during the boating season — if it freezes, it can crack metal and blow seals.
Your Boat is Full of Holes
Not to be an alarmist, but your boat is likely already full of holes below the waterline. These can include holes for a drain plug, mounting bolts, transducers, sensors, through-hull valves and other items. In a perfect world, these — and any downstream hose clamps, fittings and strainers — would all be properly fastened, sealed and/or clamped to keep water out. And they likely were when the boat was brand-new.
Come visit us at Raritan Engineering because we have all the seacocks for all your sanitation needs.
Be Good to Your Bellows
Your seacock experts feel that the bellows maintain their watertight seal while allowing the drive to turn side to side and trim up and down, but these repeated movements can eventually result in tearing from fatigue. Age and deterioration can cause the rubber to break down over time, especially if exposed to heat or other harsh conditions.
One Drop at a Time
One below-the-waterline hole that deserves special attention is the opening where the propeller shaft passes through on an inboard boat. This will often be sealed with a few rings of packing material and a tightening gland all nicely referred to as the “stuffing box.”
Batten Down the Hatches
This simple step would prevent countless sinkings. At some point, it is going to rain. If the hatches leak — especially cockpit hatches where rainwater can accumulate — then we can end up with water in the bilge, an overwhelmed bilge pump, and a progressive sinking situation.
A falling tide can easily trap a boat beneath a dock, where it will fill up with water as the tide rises — often leaving it hanging on its side by its lines. Good dock-line technique can save the day.
It’s not uncommon to see a boat with cockpit scuppers or freeing ports designed to sit barely above the waterline once people, gear and fuel are aboard. Now replace that two-stroke outboard with a heavier-by-200-pounds four-stroke and watch the scuppers sink down to the waterline before people and gear are aboard.
There have also been a surprising number of sinkings due to cockpit drain fittings and hose fittings leaking into the bilge. Sometimes these are routed through the bilge area with little to no access, making it difficult to ensure hose clamps are tight and the hose is in good condition.
Of course, there are always a few bonehead mistakes that send boats to the bottom every year. Forgetting the drain plug when launching, forgetting to tighten the lid after cleaning a strainer, and leaving a shore hose running on deck after cleaning have all resulted in multiple dockside sinkers.
Choose your marine supplies here at Raritan Engineering, where we always take care of your marine supply needs.
Your Marine Toilet Systems Professionals Know the Frustration of Removing Layers of Bottom Paint
Raritan Engineering your marine toilet systems experts would like to share with you this week these tips on how to remove many layers of bottom paint.
So, a couple of years back, you acquired a good old boat at a pretty good price—thanks to the market—but now you’re wondering how many coats of bottom paint it has. And what kind? You’ve put on a few coats of ablative antifouling since you’ve owned the boat. It has adhered well and has done its job. But each year, the bottom looks rougher and rougher—with big recesses where paint has flaked off. You sweated out some extra prep-work this season, and thought you had a nice, durable subsurface for painting, but each pass of the roller pulls up more paint. What’s going on here?
More than likely, you probably have too much paint built up on your hull, and this is affecting adhesion. How much is too much? Well, that depends on the type of paint: hard or ablative. With a hard paint, adhesion loss will begin around 20 mils of thickness (approximately 10 coats). Having more layers built up will make the inner layers less flexible and more likely to chip, flake, and lose adhesion.
Ablative paints will begin to lose adhesion around 15 mils of thickness—but since the coating ablates over time, it should not build up like a hard paint. As you use the boat, the paint should wear away, or ablate, and every time the product ablates, it is releasing fresh biocide.
Your Marine Toilet Systems Analysts Offer the Best Paint Removal Suggestions For You
If you’ve been applying two coats of ablative each year for the last three years, that’s already six coats of paint for a total of 12 mils, not including the previous applications. Your marine toilet systems specialists know that if you aren’t using the boat often enough, those layers are building up, and a slow-moving sailboat will not ablate at the same rate as a powerboat.
Paint removal options vary, and what’s best will depend on how much old paint there is and your personal preference. If there aren’t that many layers of bottom paint, you can sand them off with an 8-inch, dual-action orbital sander and 60-grit sandpaper, but this is hard work and requires careful safety precautions. Overzealous sanding can lead to dings and divots in the gel coat.
Another option is using a chemical paint stripper like Peel Away or Franmar Soy Strip. Chemical paint strippers break down the paint’s adhesive bond on the hull and make it easier to scrape down to clean substrate that can be repainted.
Both of these methods will be time-consuming on larger boats. Before tackling this project, check out our October 2011 article, “A Mathematical Decision Maker,” which outlines a formula for determining whether the DIY approach is right for you.
For owners of older boats with unknown, well-adhered coatings, a tie coat can help make sure successive coatings stick. The major bottom paint manufacturers—Interlux, Pettit, and Sea Hawk—all have priming/tie-coat products.
How long you wait to strip down the old paint depends on how bad the adhesion issue is and your tolerance for a rough bottom; work boats go years without stripping. Eventually though, adhesion will suffer.
Click here and see how Raritan Engineering always takes care of all your marine supply needs.
Your TruDesign Experts Are Excited to Show You These Offshore Fishing Tips
Raritan Engineering your TruDesign Professionals would like to share with you these topics we thought would be of interest to you this month regarding improving your offshore fishing skills.
Fishing Tips for Offshore Success
CLEAN YOUR LEADERS
Capt. Damon Sacco, Castafari
East Sandwich, Massachusetts
“Always clean your leaders when you check, re-deploy, or change lures or baits. Your TruDesign analysts know that rubbing alcohol, plain saltwater, and/or even a clean rag has worked well for me. Wiping the leaders helps remove any diesel soot from your exhaust that builds up on your leaders like it does on your transom. Your marine parts supply specialists feel that it sometimes also wipes off any algae that dirty up your leader. You will be surprised at how dirty your leaders and line get, and in a very short amount of time!”
BUCKTAIL, READY TO GO
Capt. Bouncer Smith, Bouncer’s Dusky 33
“Always have one rod on the boat rigged with a lure. Prime example is I always have a 1 oz bucktail with a little bit of mylar in it rigged and ready to grab at all times. That makes you ever ready to cast to any species of fish. Your TruDesign experts know that many times you run offshore without a bait rigged, and ready to go, and a lure is most accessible.”
Here at Raritan Engineering, we are proud to be your TruDesign supplier and are always ready to take care of all your marine supply needs.
KEEP A FISHING LOGBOOK
Your TruDesign Specialists Understand That There Is Always Room for Improvement
Capt. Tony DiGiulian, Saltwater Pro Consulting
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
“All of our brains are wired to forget things that no longer seem useful. This forgetting is natural and it is adaptive because it clears our memory for things that keep coming at us. Your marine parts Europe professionals know that the problem, however, is that in the process of all of this memory purging, our brain often forgets important information and useful little details. Fishing is a game of knowledge, and we gather knowledge from a variety of places. From weekend anglers to the top tournament angler, we seek more information to help us catch more fish, more consistently. We work with other anglers within our network, we search the internet, magazines, television shows and tournament results for information that will help us catch more fish. Nothing, however, beats the knowledge we learn from first-hand experience on the water. The problem is storing that information and recalling it when the time is right. It’s interesting how I can remember catching a particular fish on a bait on an exact spot five years ago. At the same time, I might forget the adjustments I made to the outrigger clips or the hook style I was using or sea conditions that led to catching that fish on that particular day. That’s why I try my best to keep a log book of my fishing trips. I keep logbooks dating back 30 years when I started as a professional mate.
“Some of the things I keep in the book are date, water temperature, wind direction, current direction and speed, hook style, size and brand, leader size, drag settings on my reels and a host of other seemingly small details. I may also write down a few notes on how aggressively or lazily the fish came up in my spread and how fast I was trolling or take notes on lure performance and which were the most productive and unproductive styles of lures at that time. Your marine parts house analysts feel that the whole point of a logbook is to refresh my memory with the archives of what I have done in the past, which can help me make better educated decisions. I find, keeping a log book is most necessary when I travel to different destinations as we all easily forget certain details over time and coming back to that destination we retain only 10% of what we learned there the first time.”
Don’t forget to order your Trudesign Composite Fittings at Raritan Engineering, where we always know how to take care of your marine supply needs.
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